A Closer Look at Sustainable Textiles
Behind The Scenes: The Oshadi Collective
The Oshadi Collective is a "seed-to-stitch" supply chain initiative based in Erode, Tamil Nadu (rural India). Founded by Nishanth Chopra, this collective is building a regenerative fashion supply chain to pave the way for fashion manufacturing moving forward using practices rooted in the past. Within the village, textiles are grown, farmed, spun, dyed, woven, and sewn by local artisans.
via @oshadi_collective on Instagram
There are threats to the environment within every step of the typical clothing manufacturing process that Oshadi has addressed with the adaptation of traditional Indian farming techniques, the use of natural dyes (tumeric, indigo, etc), and the return to a village based economy. Traditional Indian farming practices have been around much longer than the term regenerative agriculture has been a fashion buzzword, although it falls under this category. Regenerative agriculture and cotton works to improve soil health, support biodiversity, and sequester carbon in the growing process. It is impressive to witness a circumstance in which fashion can do some good.
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Chopra is certainly a fashion disruptor. He told @ecoage, “People always thought the world was flat,” he smiles, confidently. “And then one day somebody came in and said that it was round, and everything else became false. Currently the supply chain is flat, it’s linear, and everyone thinks that’s right. We need to make it round, so that everything can come full circle.” (Sources: @voguemagazine @ecoage)
Where Art Meets Science: Sies Marjan x Cornell University
The Natural Dye Studio via WWD
Sies Marjan worked with Cornell University to produce "The Countryside Collection" using contact dye practices. Cornell's Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design's has been working at improving the textile process to be a more sustainable one. The University's Dr. Green collaborated with the big designer name to test different dyeing processes and color reactions that coincide with the collection vision. Contact dye was chosen as the method of dyeing through eco-printing/plant-pounding. Plant pigment pressed into the fabric is then steamed to lock in. This cuts water usage in the dyeing process drastically. Natural dyes are non-toxic, non-allergic and have reduced negative environmental impacts than synthetic dyes. This collaboration is so inspirational as it shows the intersection of science, design, and sustainability within fashion.
Sources:
https://www.vogue.com/article/oshadi-studio-regenerative-agriculture-ethical-sustainable-fashion?fbclid=IwAR3V03oKZ1aeTBnZtS2o4hwX4pRTUWV9FMbkZKXbpww2TTb5j3hX2M31QNQ
https://www.eco-age.com/magazine/oshadi-collective-regenerative-fashion-supply-chain-india?fbclid=IwAR3Rn33b-QD_2DmyO3_OYu-47KBFw7PYrI2pB8bEisQ2wSP9WRm_t_ih1lE
https://oshadi.in/about.php?fbclid=IwAR2gFMEcpuDFRiezFDortBYx_JYM6YVljs8FydQcUZdBcUcXpFUKU3c271o
https://wwd.com/business-news/business-features/cornell-sies-marjan-fall-2020-nyfw-natural-dye-botanical-silks-1203502532/
https://www.instagram.com/siesmarjan/
https://www.instagram.com/oshadi_collective/
